Surf

rider

 

The term « surfing » came from a person or a boat riding down a wave and getting speed in the movement. But in this extreme sport the person surfing is carried along an ocean wave and standing on a surfboard.
Surfing was a central part of ancient polynesian culture. So the Polynesian ( islands in the pacific) were permeated by surf culture and their chiefs would show to Polynesian people their authority through the skills they had in the sport.
The art of surfing was just looked and discovered by the europeans in 1767 when they were navigating around Tahiti. After that, Mark Twain travelled until hawaii and observed that the hawaiian did their past-time of surfing naked.

But surfing like all the water sports, hold a danger : drowning. Surfers need to use a leash which attached their anckle to their board to prevent drowning. The collisions are also a case of danger. A surfer can come in contact with reefs, rocks, boards or even other surfers which may cause unconsciousness or death when the chrash is huge.
The most famous surf spots are in places with chronicle big waves with very long beaches:
There are in Australia (gold coast), Indonesia, Polynesia, Brazil, South Africa, Costa Rica, California, Spain and France.